Snazzy eatery names in New York

In BlackBook magazine in June –
Besides an affinity for portmanteau nomenclature, Baconery (bacon + bakery) and Schmackary’s (Zachary + Schmahl) have shared notice of the dessert scene’s dearth of cured meat. But no longer. Both West Side outfits have turned their boutique delivery services into brick and mortar storefronts, offering umami fiends all sorts of bacon-filled delights.
At Baconery, inside the Flatiron’s Books of Wonder, the signature is a chocolate-bacon-peanut butter cookie—peanut butter being a popular gateway ingredient between sweet and savory. Don’t overlook the bacon marshmallow bars, bacon treats for dogs, or this month’s special, bacon-pecan-walnut pie. Full strips of bacon doused in milk or white chocolate are fine substitutes for insane fair fare for those who won’t be trading Chelsea for Branson this summer. 
Up in Hell’s Kitchen is the newly opened Schmackary’s, which had previously operated as an insider’s delivery service. The “Heavenly Baked in Hell’s Kitchen” offerings go beyond bacon treats—red velvet cookies are the specialty—but the maple bacon cookie is one of two seasonal hits, and the peanut butter/chocolate/banana/candied bacon milkshake is an unkosher mainstay.
Bacon cookies have long been a common treat in Germany called Speckkuchen (which Google translates to “quiche”). But the penchant for salty treats has developed on its own terms here in the U.S., especially as gourmet sea salt has taken hold of the popular palate. Anyone who’s ever allowed bacon and maple syrup to touch on their breakfast plate will agree that it’s a favorable occurrence. It was only a matter of time before accidental-treats-turned-cult-favorite-delivery-services became full-fledged dessert spots. Sorry cupcakes, you had a good run.

[BlackBook Editorial Reviews] Baconery – The inevitable portmanteau: bacon meets bakery. Formerly just mail order, new shop does cookies, brownies, pretzels, and biscuits (for humans and canines). All. Stuffed. With. Bacon. Bacon rice crispy treats make for a balanced breakfast. Raspberry brownie truffles full of porky goodness. Inside Chelsea children’s fave Books of Wonder, start that bacon habit early. Mail order business still serviceable. Schmackary’s – Zachary Schmahl’s portmanteau of a cookie business opens a storefront. Generous space inside, exposed brick and tall tabletops. Rotating cookie varieties, don’t miss carrot cake and maple bacon when they come around. Mainstays highlighted by white chocolate-cherry, red velvet, choconut chip. Tiger Stripe Espresso for staving off carb overloads. Milkshakes flip the finger to your cardiologist and your rabbi with peanut butter, chocolate, banana, and bacon blend. Cult-fame delivery business still runs for lazy locals.

Glossary :

Schmahl : “Schmackary’s – Zachary Schmahl’s portmanteau of a cookie business opens a storefront.” (- Editor, BlackBook magazine). There is in this restaurant’s name perhaps a hint of Schmeck, German and Yiddish for “taste” ; then, too, the notion of smacking one’s lips for culinary savour ; also undoubtedly there is a self-mocking overtone informing the restaurateur’s company name that echoes characteristic colloquial Yiddish reduplications such as “fancy-schmancy”. Schmeck < Ger., Geschmack, “taste” ; in Yiddish the connotation of Schmeck can be that of just the barest little taste, “a whiff” (but there are other definitions too, some less than savoury).

umami : a Japanese gustatory term,
“A taste that is characteristic of monosodium glutamate and is associated with meats and other high-protein foods. It is sometimes considered to be a fifth basic taste along with sweet, sour, salty, and bitter.” (- The American Heritage Dictionary, 4th edition).

Hell’s Kitchen : a knockabout old neighbourhood on the West Side of Midtown in Manhattan, an area which also includes Chelsea.

Speckkuchen : literally “lard cakes” [Ger., Speck, “lard, bacon”] ; a German dish which is heavier than quiche, more like a hearty bacon and onion tart.

“insane fair fare for those who won’t be trading Chelsea for Branson this summer” : Probably this is a reference meaning one’s leaving the city and one’s home turf (i. e. the Chelsea neighbourhood of Manhattan) and going down to the Ozark Empire Fair near Branson, Missouri, where unusual foodstuffs might be had. There may be a sneaky suggestion as well, that because Branson is a destination for extremely old, culturally hide-bound or unadventurous people, they, at least, will not be sticking around to sample these new treat-trends in confectionery.

Sorry, cupcakes : Jesting valediction to a recent trendy-nostalgic wave amongst American foodies.

“flip the finger to your cardiologist and your rabbi” : i. e. disregard their counsel, in the first instance regarding healthful, “heart-healthy” diet, and in the second, the strictures or guide-lines of Leviticus and Halacha [Hebrew, “guidance”] which enumerate the kosher laws as to which foods may be eaten together, or at all.





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